On Friday, January 9, we walked through much of central Oxford. The
highlight was a tour of Christ Church College and Cathedral, one of the—maybe
the—most famous, prestigious, and wealthiest of colleges of Oxford. It is the
school of British Prime Ministers (thirteen of them) and the location for stories and
movies from Alice in Wonderland to Harry Potter as well as the inspiration for many verses. Christ Church has about
550 undergrad and grad students, large by Oxford standards. It has
wonderful buildings (the Tom Tower, below, designed by Christopher Wren, is one of Oxford’s landmarks); they are surrounded by beautiful
gardens, lush sporting grounds (from croquet to soccer/football) and an expansive meadow notable for its herd of cows.
It also has a rich history. It was created in 1525 by
Cardinal Wolsey as Cardinal College. However, Wolsey fell out of favor a few years
later with King Henry VIII, when he couldn’t get Henry’s first marriage annulled
(tangent: you can always remember the fate of Henry VIII’s wives with the rhyme,
“divorced, beheaded, died, divorced, beheaded, survived). Henry took over the
College and called it (you guessed it) Henry VIII College. A few years later, he renamed it Christ
Church as part of his creation of the Church of England.
From the start, the College and Cathedral were created and
developed by funds garnered by the English reformation and the dissolution of Catholic monasteries. About 100 years after Henry VIII, the royal and religious disputes continued to shape Christ Church when it became the home of Charles I during the
English Civil War—Charles lost his head over his war with Parliament. Speaking of lost heads, one of the acts of
Henry VIII as head of his new church (sorry, I know I’m jumping back a century) was
to deface or cut off the heads of all images of Catholic saints—he was purifying a
church that had become idolatrous. Even the images of the children of a saint
honored in the Cathedral lost their heads:
Even a beautiful stained glass window portraying the murder of Thomas Beckett wasn't spared--the head was replaced with a plain piece of glass (one could argue that at least the window was spared).
The Cathedral is central to the College, though students no longer have mandatory
attendance. I don’t think I’d ever known
that the dean of the College must be from the clergy. Is Christ Church a
religious college—in a way that even Notre Dame U or Brigham Young U aren’t? In
a week that has been dominated by news of murder and mayhem in Paris caused in the name
of religion, there was a certain disquieting feeling when listening to the
violent history of the Cathedral at the center of the College.
We didn’t get to see the Great Hall, which has been the
inspiration for a number of other college great halls, including Hogwarts. So
maybe my experience would have been different if that secular (if maybe magical) site had been included. The
Great Hall is closed until March—maybe I’ll update this post then. We didn’t even
get to climb the great stairs where students are greeted by the Dean—or at
least that’s how it goes in Harry Potter
and the Philosopher’s Stone (ok, this part of the blog entry is for my
grandchildren). This is what we saw of the stairs:
After the tour, we went to a lovely nearby café for scones,
clotted cream, coffee, and tea. We are getting acclimated.
No comments:
Post a Comment